William Abraham – Innovative, Luxury Socks (Permanent Style)
“I have tried four of the different designs, concentrating on the interesting material mixes. The silk/cashmere mixes are sumptuous to wear, particularly the 50/50 ratio. They feel like the most luxurious wool you could possibly have against the skin. And I’m also glad that the 100% silk functions so well. It is no more sheer than some thin cottons, and breathes fantastically. ”

The Business of Private Labelling (The Shoe Snob Blog)
“The real problem at hand is not the factories. They don’t have a police to hold them accountable for making shoes that all look the same and might be a copy of another’s. The people to be held accountable are the new designers that come onto the scene simply to make shoes that look like other’s but do so at a cheaper price in order to undercut the competition. This is the problem and what people should do to stop it is not support those brands. If you do, then it only becomes more acceptable. It’s easy to make a cheap copy but it’s not easy to be a designer of integrity that attempts to do things differently without reinventing the wheel while still maintaining a manner of classicism, quality and uniqueness. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it.”

Untrueisms II (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“Today, however, our audience’s attention and indifference are far more difficult to predict. For the moment, fashionable suits are indeed too tight. Their prevalence, however, means that our audience likely takes them for granted, to the extent it would not rubberneck anyone wearing a suit. Even dressing in the too fashionable “sprezz” style (of garish accessories billowing, artfully unbuttoned, or intentionally carelessly tied) has become common enough that it may not draw a second glance. Although stiffness is still a bad word in #menswear, today it’s difficult to imagine how it could draw attention since most onlookers in the street wouldn’t seem inclined or capable of judging clothing stiffness or fit.”

Understanding Alterations: Suits and Sport Coats (No Man Walks Alone)
“However, you’re generally safe if you make sure the shoulders, chest, and length fit you well, and the collar doesn’t stand too far from your neck. Your jacket’s shoulders should terminate near your body’s natural shoulders, and there should be no divots or pulling at the upper part of the sleeves. The lapels shouldn’t sit too far from the body, either because the chest is too baggy or because the lapels are buckling from the chest being too tight. The length should also generally bisect your body about halfway between your jacket’s collar and the floor. The hem can be taken up a little, if needed, but if you go too far, you’ll throw off the “balance,” where the bottom-most button and pockets can look too close to the hem.”