A Row of Opportunity Part 1 | Part 2 (Business of Fashion)
“In recent years, the global luxury menswear market has grown at roughly double the pace of luxury womenswear, according to Bain & Company, a consulting firm. The British Fashion Council has launched a dedicated menswear showcase, London Collections: Men, and the world’s largest luxury conglomerates, LVMH and Kering, have both invested aggressively in expanding their respective menswear brands, Berluti and Brioni. But in a luxury menswear market rich with new opportunity, the tailors of Savile Row face a stark reality: bespoke tailoring is simply not a scalable business.”

Talking Shop with Carson Street Clothiers (A Continuous Lean)
““Breaking” new brands is something in which we take great pride, but it is a tricky and even dangerous activity. Since we approach buying from a “fan-first” basis, the threshold issue is whether we love the product and find it intriguing enough to make it into our own wardrobes. This is a pretty easy threshold to cross, though, seeing how much amazing stuff is being produced every season, so then we ask ourselves whether we truly believe that the brand in question would add something new to our shop. Once we’ve answered this question, more questions need to be answered: would our customer be interested in this product? would this product potentially cannibalize the sales of another brand we already carry? does this new brand seem financially viable enough to deliver to us on time and not fold and disappear in six months? Once we’ve answered all these questions, then we can decide the brand or product’s place in our shop. Yeah, it’s an exhausting activity.”

The Next Wave of Menswear Heritage-Brand Reboots (Wall Street Journal)
“The latest labels to tap youthful, buzzed-about designers to pump new blood into their brands and reach younger men: Haspel, founded in New Orleans in 1909, and Kent and Curwen, launched in England in 1926. The former recently hired Shipley & Halmos designers Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos, while Kent and Curwen sought out British designer Simon Spurr. The partnerships are part of the second wave of menswear’s heritage movement, a group that includes J. Press, a purveyor of American prep, which drafted twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons whose first collection for the 112-year-old brand debuted last spring.”

Getting It Right On The Night (Mr. Porter)
“Here’s Mr Connolly on the subject of taking her out for dinner on Valentine’s Day: “In three words: you simply mustn’t. Here is an evening not for eating out, but for cooking – whichever one of you is best at it. A romantic setting by all means: it is always far too cold for outside eating, so here is an opportunity to create your very own little piece of paradise within (though do not do what they do in films and drape your lamps with chiffon scarves because they will smoulder and then catch light, and there is nothing so guaranteed to break the romantic mood as the front door being axed down by a bunch of firemen).””

Photo Essay: Drake’s Tie Factory (PORT)
““For me, Drake’s has, in the last 10 years, built on its foundation of quality and style to become a figure head in men’s fashion – making it a prime place for me to visit for a story on products made in England. Drakes makes 2,500 ties a week, all hand made and then shipped to all corners of the world,” says Harry Watts. Having manufactured the ties on Garrett Street, Drake’s last year moved to another East London location, Habedasher Street, and now the entire company with its studio, factory, showroom and headquarters, are gathered at one location. The result is a leaner and meaner machinery, as these images show – truly a modern company anchored in ancient traditions and timeless quality.”

Past Masters (Matches Fashion)
“An emerging group of men’s grooming labels are blending modern science with vintage looks to craft your forebears would approve of.”