2013: The Year We Put a Bullet in the Dress Code (GQ)
“In 2013, of course, men didn’t leave an official uniform behind, but they did shun the gear of the corporate functionary. The salaryman’s dress code had been eroding since the late ’90s, with casual Friday creeping back to Thursday. In the new millennium, many companies ditched jacket-and-tie rules. The idea of business casual took off—the corporate version of “no shirt, no shoes, no service”—indicating that you still needed long pants, leather shoes, and a collared shirt. Now whole offices are as dressed down as Silicon Valley tech campuses. Your accountant is wearing a Harris tweed jacket with indigo selvage jeans he washes in cold water. The guy in the Belstaff Roadmaster? That’s your insurance agent. And you, you’re no drone. You’re a freelancer in your head and a competitor, even at the office. Your beard shows ferocity, your vintage Rooster tie attests to your wit, your Red Wing boots befit your all-terrain manliness. What you wear shows who you are, not whom you belong to.”

Barbour and Belstaff: A Tale of Two British Heritage Brands (The Business of Fashion)
“While Barbour, founded in 1894, built an enduring relationship with the men and women of Britain’s countryside, clothing aristocrats and their gamekeepers in equal measure, Belstaff, established in 1924, found ready fans for its aviation and motorcycling gear in Amelia Earhart, T.E Lawrence and Che Guevara. Both brands proudly possess the cachet of having dressed one of the world’s enduring icons of menswear: Steve McQueen.”

Berluti Enters the Bespoke World (Wall Street Journal)
“The tailors at Arnys, a more than century-old Left Bank purveyor of menswear, had never worked with denim before. Last year, Berluti’s parent company, LVMH, bought Arnys and folded it into the Berluti brand. Under Mr. Sartori’s watch and the Berluti name, the traditional tailoring shop has been transformed. The store on Rue de Sèvres in Paris was burnished to a rich, clubby gloss by architect Gwenaël Nicolas, and Mr. Sartori expanded the shop’s offerings significantly, while keeping Arnys’s skilled staff in place. Jeans are now on the custom-made menu, as are chinos, trench coats and field jackets—clothes that even the most discerning gentleman probably wouldn’t consider ordering bespoke.”

Two Problem With Jeans (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“This presents iGents with two problems. The first is that the jeans are too tight for grown men, and look as bad on guys who are in shape (their thighs and calves end up constrained), as they do on guys who aren’t in shape. The second is that because they sit on the hips, rather than the waist, they look rather strange worn with jackets, because the distance between the natural waist, and the top of the jeans’ low-slung waistband, is visible beneath the jacket’s buttoning point.”

Appropriately Inappropriate for ‘Festive Dress’ (The New York Times)
“ ‘Festive’ demands that you make an effort,” said Euan Rellie, a senior managing director at an investment bank, listing his own festive fail-safes: smoking jacket, tartan trousers, patent leather slippers (though not all at once). “Festive and sophisticated are not mutually exclusive,” he said. “It doesn’t mean ‘Pretend you’re a Christmas ornament.’ ”