U.S. Military Leather Jackets (Put This On)
“These jackets are sort of the culture to the field jackets’ counterculture; they were and are expensive items designed and manufactured for airmen operating in the demanding conditions of early aircraft, which were short on creature comforts. The primary source of the badass, Brando school of leather jacket is motorcycle culture rather than the military.”

Ode to the Undergarment (T Magazine)
Until I found the perfect undershirt. It is made by a company called Tommy John (unrelated to the baseball player). It changed my life. Before I go any further, let me say the cost of these shirts is indefensible: $40 apiece! For an undershirt! (I secretly hope someone from Fruit of the Loom will read this article and figure out a way to knock them off for a third of the price.)

The Case for Better Shirts (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“Bespoke shirts, and the people who make them, are not without faults naturally. All but the very few (and very expensive) makers produce more than a thousand shirts a year. There will be an occasional dud, and the customer may be expected to absorb the cost. Indeed, because of the quantities involved some bespoke shirtmakers lack the professionalism and care often associated with bespoke tailors, and this may be particularly true of those makers who do not want to shut off the autopilot. Yet, find a very good artisan who is amenable to requests and challenges and one will quickly look to some other article of dress to save funds. An excellent cutter can work shape into a shirt that both flatters and invigorates. To put it plainly, a bespoke shirt simply feels better. Some might say the feeling is a placebo effect, and if that is true so be it. Most altering medications are just that anyway, and those aren’t so cheap. So consider trying better shirts, the money one was once saving will be quickly forgotten, but the fit, feel, and shape of the shirts will not.”

#Menswear’s Daddy Issues (Four Pins)
“So, where does this leave us? Well, to return for a moment to the biological as oppose to the metaphorical, I would say that as the Year of the Dad comes to a close, we have all begun to dress closer to our real fathers. What I mean is, we have all arrived at the curled edged photos of our dad’s in the seventies and eighties, wearing more basic, toned down pieces. #Menswear has begun to accept the worn in essentials look as the modus operandi. We search for the “perfect” white tee, the “perfect” blue jean, the “perfect” field jacket, like it’s the most important thing in the world. We aren’t looking for the gloss or sheen that’s reigned over magazine pages. We’re striving for a look that’s comfortable, a look that’s familiar. It’s a look that’s kind of like our dads.”

Gianni Agnelli, the Godfather of Style (Wall Street Journal)
“The main ingredient was quality. You have to be rich to dress like Agnelli. He wore only the finest suits, handmade by Caraceni with Battistoni shirts. The best, the top—that was Agnelli. But then he took it apart, played with it as a maker of hot rods might play with and retool an old Fiat. “Gianni’s elegance was extremely studied,” says Taki. “He came to America after the war, when people in Italy were trying to rebuild. He was the first [European] man of his time to discover Brooks Brothers. In ’58, ’59, he was wearing button-down Brooks Brothers shirts without doing the collar buttons. You have to see him in the context of that time. Everything he did was different. The uniform for the young man on the make was a white silk shirt with a lot of gold around his neck—mostly religious—very light trousers and, of course, espadrilles. Well, Gianni wore driver’s shoes, tight pants—not too tight—and those button-downs without doing the collar. Then everyone dressed like that, because they all copied Gianni.””