Pantherella: Nifty Footwork (Billionaire)
““Unlike many other garments, a sock doesn’t just have to look and feel good, it really has to perform inside that shoe — it has to be machine washable, durable — and doing that with finer yarns is not easy,” says Hall. Quality control is key. Out in the warehouse, the 60 colour variants of cotton, for example, are kept on reels in special wraps to prevent them from drying out over time, which would adversely affect the knitting standard (yarns are bought by the kilo, including an industry-wide acceptable level of water content; like the ‘angel’s share’ of whisky production, but in reverse). And, pre-production, each run goes through a quality-control lab where it is tested for abrasion, tension, consistency of colour and the like.”

The Royal Dress Shirt (Women’s Wear Daily)
“So how, exactly, is a Turnbull & Asser custom shirt created? The process begins with the customer visiting the store to be measured. Then he chooses the material and style. Special attention is paid to idiosyncrasies in the shoulder, torso, and back. The customer’s measurement pattern is then traced and entered into a computer-aided design (CAD) system. “The CAD system ensures more than a modicum of consistency, and it utilizes the fabric efficiently and more accurately, so there’s the least amount of wastage,” says Gillotte.”

The Edit: Grooming (Mr. Porter)
“Patrick Bateman’s grooming regimen in American Psycho has become the stuff of legend (“in the shower, I use a water-activated gel cleanser, then a honey-almond body scrub…”) but lest we forget the movie was intended to be satirical, we favour a simpler – yet equally effective – approach to ensuring we look (and smell) our best each day. On that note, MR PORTER is delighted to announce a new category on the website: grooming products.”

Four-Figure Denim for (Only) Your Figure (Wall Street Journal)
“Ordering customized jeans isn’t unlike having a pair of trousers made for a suit: There are fittings, a pattern is drawn, the cloth is cut into pieces and finally sewn into pants. But denim can be trickier than other fabrics. Ranging in weight from 5 to 32 ounces per yard, it continues to evolve well after its been sewn. Mr. Morrison’s staff is not just tailoring, they’re laying a foundation for a fabric that will adjust to the wearer’s body.”

What’s In A Name? (Monocle)
“Be it a small but growing swimwear firm from Thailand or a traditional tannery in Sweden, all successful brands have a story to tell. Here we profile five companies with a variety of backgrounds but one thing in common: initiative.”

How to wear separate jackets and trousers (Permanent Style)
“The key to wearing separates is contrast. Both items must clearly be differentiated from each other. The easiest way to do this is through colour, then pattern. Design details such as contrasting buttons and patch pockets can also help differentiate the jacket from a suit. And although contrast in cloth is also worth considering, more often keeping the two materials similar in their formality is the best option.”

Interview with Michael Kuhle from Epaulet (Keikari)
“When Adele and I became serious about Epaulet, we knew that the artisanal side of manufacturing was going to be our future. These people have enormous pride in what they do. They make excellent products. They’re open to your designs and input. They’re great partners, and they’re people that you can grow your business with. By working with small manufacturers and selling direct to your customers, you can offer an outstanding product at a fair price. And both you and your customers can feel good about supporting the artisans who produce the items.”