Acquired tastes (Monocle)
“Inspired by a creative affinity for the country, a band of Japanese craftsmen have set up shop in Italy. Monocle speaks to a shoemaker, glass artist and tailor about embracing the techniques and traditions of their foreign muse.”
A Selfie from Paris (A Suitable Wardrobe)
“Although the jacket in the picture was not made for me, it shows that Mr. Suzuki’s style resembles that of his master Smalto, with a fishmouth notch lapel, one of the trademark features of traditional French bespoke. What I was actually more curious about was the rigidity of the Suzuki construction. While you might expect something stiffer from Savile Row and something softer from Naples, French bespoke can range anywhere from very stiff to very soft. Mr. Suzuki’s jackets fall somewhere in the middle of the range — he told me that he uses a canvass of intermediate stiffness for most of his French clients. But he quickly added that he also has many clients in his home country of Japan, where the smaller chests of Japanese men require him to use a softer construction for the jackets to look elegant on them. Therefore, he claims that he is also accustomed to working with lighter canvases, even of the super-light variety, called ‘black’ canvass in the trade.”
One fine day: A bespoke tour of Paris (Essence London)
“Located just off the Champs Elysées, Rue Marbeuf is mostly known for its designer brands, such as Zilli and Kiton. At the start of the street, however, two of France’s foremost bespoke ateliers are hidden away on the first floor: Cifonelli and Berluti.”
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Wear (Put This On)
“For certain shoes, however you want this kind of “damage” to appear. It gives them character and makes them more lived-in. This gets back to a very fundamental idea that nothing looks good when it’s too new or too stiff. That doesn’t just go for certain styles of footwear – it goes for things such as tweed jackets, briefcases, and almost all kinds of outerwear. It’s perhaps for this reason why there are stories about how Fred Astaire used to throw his new bespoke suits up against the wall before wearing them, and how Charlie Davidson of The Andover Shop won’t even wear a new jacket until it’s been sitting on a hanger for a year.”
Twenty Things You Should Never Say To Your Tailor (Ivory Tower Style)
“20. It’s ok, I’m going to lose 10 pounds.
19. This looks great. I can’t wait to have a cheaper tailor copy it.
18. Why is there a discount for cash?
17. Is there an upcharge for a three-breasted suit?
16. Don’t worry, it’s ok, I read Fred Astaire did this to all his new suits.
15. You really should raise your prices.”